![]() The young man who I was making this one for got to grind the horns, welds, etc. When in final position the flanges and webs in the base rails were trimmed back to allow clearance around the horns. You can just make out the torched space in the base flanges. The base rails aren't offset, I was grinding everything clean to weld. The total length of rail was about 5' less trimmings plus about 15 lbs. They're not centered but what the hey, you can make them any shape you like.įorget adding ballast, the above described anvil weighed in at a bit over 210 lbs. Then you extend the "horn" out beyond the face, one horn on each end. You make 8" horns by making the base rails 8" longer than the face, trim the webs and flanges back some on one end. We planned on a 12" face and two 8" horns. A great big crescent wrench or make a wrench makes it easier. To keep the beads balanced to negate the pulling that warps things like this you need to be able to flip it over pretty often. I welded it on a piece of plate on saw horses because I don't have a proper welding table. Tempil stick because that's what the welding supply had. When I pulled it out of the perlite next day it was ruler straight and fritter flat. Each stitch pass should be maybe 2" or so, I don't know if it's THE right length of bead per stitch but it worked very well for me. Once dimpled move on to the next stitch pass. Run a pass chip the slag then go a little nuts on it with the punch end of the chipping hammer to relieve stress as it cools. You'll need to stitch weld to control warping. Weld the inverted flange to the rail cap as you've sketched. This leaves between 1/2" and 3/4" space so you can weld the flanges to the inverted rail. Leave matching tabs at each end and one in the center to prevent pulling when you weld. Grind or torch about 1/4" from the inside (where they touch each other) of the flanges on the base rails. The radius of the web matches the rail surface almost exactly in unworn rail. ![]() The rails of the base pair have just enough room between them for the web of the upper (inverted) rail to slip between. This is how rail is stacked to ship or store it's the most stable and takes up the least space. I've made welded anvils built up from 3 sections of rail as in your second sketch. If you'll put your general location in the header you might be surprised how many of the gang live within visiting distance. What do you all think? Will one of these combined with stout attachment to a large, heavy log-stand planted a few feet into the ground make a decent anvil? Or am I nutter? I'm thinking that if it is encapsulated in steel with nowhere to go, it can't act to much like a dead blow mallet and defeat the purpose of adding all that mass. Though the lead in these designs doesn't rebound the way steel does, of course. ![]() My thought is that this second design would provide a wide surface (which maybe I don't need, given a long anvil?) supported straight down through three track webs. The green weld on top is exaggerated a great deal. The top would be filled with weld (green) and ground flat, with a tool steel plate (pink) on top. Again a box (red) would be welded on the base and all voids filled with lead (grey). All three would be welded substantially at every point they touch. Two upright sections welded at the base supporting a third placed upside-down and nested into the others. My other idea is an evolution of the first. Especially if it's cast into place and completely enclosed with steel caps so it can't rattle around and turn into a 90# dead blow mallet. From what I understand the lead would only add mass to the anvil, and would not be akin to solid steel all the way through. I'd fill the section inside the rails with lead as well. A tool steel plate (pink) is welded on top and then a box (red) is welded on the bottom and filled with lead (grey) to add mass. It uses two sections of rail (blue) welded together and filled with weld (green) on top. (Sorry it's side-ways) The first idea i took from a video series I have two ideas sketched out and was hoping for some feedback. I have access to about twenty feet of track and have been researching how to make a better anvil out of it. ![]() I've been getting more into blacksmithing and have been wanting to make a better anvil than the short hunk of railroad track I've been using. Hello all, I'm a long time reader first time poster. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |